Each day the horror show
that is Syria gets worse. Millions of
people dead, wounded and displaced – with no end in sight. And each day I think about the totally
enjoyable week I spent in Syria in 2009, two years before the carnage
began. And I wonder:
What has happened to Sami
Maamoun, who turned a 17th century mansion in old Damascus into the
Old Vine, a boutique hotel where we stayed?
Sami’s life was dedicated to making the Old Vine wonderful. But who in his right mind would go to
Damascus today?
And also in the old city,
is the Al Dar restaurant, where I drank much too much arak, still in business?
We hired a car and driver
and went out in the desert to see Palmyra and the Roman ruins for which the
city is famous. ISIS now occupies
Palmyra. They have begun destroying the
archaeological treasures we saw. This
breaks my heart. Our driver was Nasser. I wonder where he is today, and his wife,
Fatima, who we met at the end of our journey.
From Palmyra we drove to
Hama, stopping at the Krak des Chevaliers, a 12th century crusader
castle. In the old days Krak withstood
many sieges. More recently it has been
the scene of fighting in the civil war.
In Hama our hotel was next to the Orontes River overlooking the norias,
waterwheels, for which Hama is famous. Many women in Hama were covered head-to-toe
(including a face veil) in black. When
we were out walking around we passed one such woman who looked at Sandra, said
“hello,” and was gone. I wonder what has
happened to her.
We ended our week in Syria
in Aleppo. I read that it is the scene
of horrific fighting between the rebels and Assad’s army. Apparently, much of the city has been damaged
and hundreds of thousands of people have fled seeking safety elsewhere. I can only imagine what is left of the
streets on which we strolled, the stores we visited, the hotels in which we
stayed.
Where is Yasir, a student
who drove us out into the countryside?
The Bedouin family we saw camped outside the town? The Arab gentlemen who offered us tea? The oud players who serenaded us at
restaurants? The many other people who
were warm and welcoming to us?
This is a very sad story.